Saturday, June 1, 2024

6-1 Leaving Kumasi - The African World Airlines Experience

 It is Saturday morning - the church service again starts at 5am.  I toss and turn in bed while Michael gets up.  The beat of the music is incessant - bump bump baaaaa.  And repeat on forever.  Everything in Ghana is loud and discordant.  The preaching is especially loud and angry sounding.  The singing is loud and enthusiastic - but off key.  They are in church to pray - the music and preaching gets them going and in the mood to pray.

I finally get up and get ready for breakfast and last packing.  We are leaving here at 8am in order to be sure we are at the airport in time for our 9:50 departure.  Remember we have to have been checked in 40 minutes before departure time.  We were told breakfast would start at 7am.  So we get to the restaurant then - all that is there is another family waiting for breakfast.  Michael goes to settle our bill.  We go back to our room todo more packing.  Nas is on her way with a different driver and a car with a bigger boot to accommodate all our luggage.  We go back to the restaurant - some food has arrived!

We eat fast and are packed and on our way by 8am.  Fifteen minutes later we are at the airport.  Nas stays with us while the car and driver are dismissed.  Nas will wait until we are on the plane before she takes the VIP bus (nearby) back to Accra.  

We get in line to check in.  Our luggage is on a luggage cart and parked a ways away from us - you can't take it with you.  Someone else will push it to the scales when you finally get to the front of the line.  I don't like this plan - but no choice is given.  Finally it is our turn.  Our luggage is over weight.  We are told we have to take the bill and go to another building to pay - and loose our place in line.  Michael loses it.  He reiterates all the terrible things that African World Airlines has done to us and how much they have cost us.  They are unmoved.  Michael says - I am not moving - I will not do your job for you - here is some money go and pay the bill yourself.  Finally the women gets someone else to take the bill and cash to pay for the extra luggage.  She insists we move so she can help the next person.  We reluctantly move - but Michael moves to the side of her desk right by the scales and refuses to move.  An uneasy truce is called.  

I stand by our luggage cart with my two pieces of carry on and wait what seems a very long time.  Finally the guy comes back with the paid bill and our luggage tags and paper tickets are finally printed.  Everything including us - seem to be going to Accra.  So we go to the security line -nope - its too early, we can't go through the line.  

There is a cafe.  We go outside to get Nas to come with us.  I want a diet coke - but very few places in Ghana have it - I can have regular coke.  Michael gets a coffee.  Nas doesn't want anything.  Well - then you can't sit here says the waitress.  Nas orders a coke - I know she doesn't like them.  But now we can all sit at the cafe.  She doesn't drink much of the coke.

An announcement is made that all who are on the 9:50 flight to Accra are to go to another building to wait.  It is getting quite close to the time we should be getting through security and boarding - but no one tells us anything.  We ask several people - yes we are to go sit in this other building.  So we leave Nas once again and go sit to wait.  We watch the clock. It's now 20 minutes before our departure time - we have not been called.  I am so uneasy - are we really in the right place?  

I finally lean forward and ask the gentleman in the row in front of us if he is taking the 9:50 to Accra.  He starts talking but I can't make sense of what he is saying.  The women in the row in front of him leans back and says - the flight has been delayed by an hour.  The clock ticks down the hour delay.  We are now ten minutes away from the delayed departure time of 10:50.  About ten minutes later we are finally told we should go through security.  So we and everyone else, grab our stuff and walk back to the original building and get into another line.  

Security here in Ghana has been so weird.  Once Michael having his umbrella in the outside pocket of his backpack became a big issue.  I made him put it into our checked luggage (still available in that case) and not make a fuss.  What was he going to do kill someone with an umbrella?  I have come to believe it is all a power play in these small airports.  Everything is so inefficient and guaranteed to piss off the passenger.  The airport personal can play god and make you do stupid stuff just because they feel like it.  We have put up with so much - until today when I think we both had had it.  Today the umbrella sailed through security tucked into the outside pocket of Michael's backpack without a word being said.

We do have to take off our shoes at these small airports.  I hate it - it is difficult to get the shoes off  while standing.  The floors are filthy here - I will never get these socks white again.  Sometimes they make you open your backpack.  Then they just look at you.  I recite everything I have in there.  I finally say - what are you looking for?  Water bottle - I don't have one - I threw it out before I got to security.  OK - fine move on.  

We finally are allowed to walk to the plane and get onboard.  The flight is fine and we arrive safely.

On this trip we had 4 flights with African World Airlines

 First flight -   Accra to Takoradi - Got to airport at 38 minutes before flight departure instead of 40 minutes because of monsoon deluge of rain. - had to rebook flight and pay passage again.  Original flight left four hours late - there was no reason we could not be on it.  We were not able to get to Takoradi until 9pm and had a 2 hour car ride to get to the resort from hell.  If it had been on time we would have gotten there when it was light and would have gone to a different resort.

Flight two - Takoradi to Accra (transfer to Kumasi)  Overweight fees ( Michael's bag ripped and he had to buy another piece bag so the first would not be so full.  They made Michael sign a paper saying his luggage was already torn before they would accept it.  They booked us and our luggage to Accra.  When we pointed out that we were going to Kumasi they made us get out of line and go sit off to the side while they figured out what to do.  Apparently no one has ever done this before.  They eventually figured it out and everything was booked thought to Kumasi.  But when we got to Accra we would have to go back to the check in desk - in another building) and get a "cash receipt".  We should not pick up our luggage at the carousal - it will be transferred to our Kumasi flight.  We are confused but decide we will figure it out when we get to Accra.  Flight left almost on time.

Flight three - Accra to Kumasi - We arrive in Accra and after deboarding walk outside to the other building to the check-in area.  Where we find out - OUR FLIGHT TO KUMASI HAS BEEN CANCELED.  We - along with everyone else who was to be on that flight have to go back to the purchase air flights desk to rebook out flight.  We decide to book a car and driver for tomorrow morning and get a air refund.  

Flight four - Kumasi to Accra -  We are placing bets on what will happen.  I keep trying to tell myself everything will be smooth - of course it was not.

So - 4 out of 4 flights on African World Airlines - not a single flight was not without a problem.  Would you fly with them again?



5-31 Travels and Accommodations in Ghana

 Our first beach resort was pretty awful - I posted about the Venice Beach Resort Experience earlier.  We then moved to the Elmina Beach Resort.  Our first room was pretty awful - Much water leaking into the room from the rain - no view at all.  Then the air conditioner stopped working and we got moved to a much better room with great views.  Our spirits  were lifted again! 

We had reservations for the Afeci Resort for two nights - Even our drive Shadrack was freaked out by the drive to the resort.  When we got close - all we saw was a huge water puddle.  An employee ran out and demonstrated that the water was not so deep as he took off his flip flops and waded into the water.  Our drive bravely drove through it. We pulled into the front of the resort - where was the fabulous pool featured on the website?  Must have been drowned out by the puddle.  On the website the hotel looked pristine and very new.  This place was run down and ugly.  We took a look at the room - which was supposed to have a water view. - there was no view.  So we told them no thanks and went on.  So once again Shadrach saved us and took us to another resort that was more acceptable. 

                                       

Our last night in Takoradi was at the Best Western - as we had a early flight to Accra.  Again our views were very good as was the room

So then we had two flights - one from Takoradi to Accra and an hour later a flight from Accra to Kumasi.  We were going inland.  They originally booked us to go to Accra and our luggage to end there as well.  But we said - Hey, we are going to Kumasi.  Oops - nobody apparently books connecting flights.  Go sit over there on those two awful chairs while we figure this out.  So much later - our luggage disappears and we are given slips of paper that say we have a flight from Takoradi to Accra and another slip of paper that says we are going from Accra to Kumasi.  We are reassured that our luggage is going to Kumasi.  I don't trust them!  They then want us to go upstairs to wait for the plane.  Michael tells them that I have a bad back - and we want to stay downstairs.  OK we can do that.  We make it to Accra.  

This is a small domestic airport in Accra - after we land we have to take a bus to the terminal and then walk to the departure area - as we were instructed we do not pick up our bags.  When we get to the departures area - we are told our flight to Kumasi has been canceled.  We have to go to the main desks to reschedule our flight.  I meet a black man from Austin Texas who is very upset about this.  We finally get to talk to an agent - we can get a plane to Kumasi tomorrow at 2:30 PM.  There is no apology for the cancelation or the inconvenience - or any accommodations for the night.  You are on your own.  

What are we going to do?  We are already going to be charged for the night at the apartment in Kumasi, but now we have to find somewhere to sleep tonight.  Do we rebook for tomorrow?  We are so tired it is hard to make a decision.  Nas in Kumasi says we should take the VIP bus from Accra to Kumasi tonight.  We decide that we will have Mary pick us up from the airport.  She and Ann arrive - they say, no way should you take the VIP bus - the roads are terrible the VIP bus drivers don't care about the passengers - You old people will not survive the trip.  It will be your worse nightmare!  We get something to eat.  We book a hotel in Accra for the night and Nas finds a car and driver to take us to Kumasi the next day.

On the 29th of May we drive to Kumasi - our driver is Stanley.  It is pretty awful.  We thought the roads in Accra were bad - little did we know.  Five hours of bumping up and down followed by brief spurts of fast driving when the pavement is smooth, followed by slamming on the brakes because of the potholes later - we arrived at our apartment in Kumasi.

The apartment is weird.  It has ornate furniture - that is fortunately more comfortable than it looks..  They tell us the kitchen area is for our use exclusively - but it is outside out apartment.  And everyday it is opened to the public.  This is really weird.  


We have a big wardrobe to put our things into.

This be has the softest mattress we have had in Ghana.

The living room.  The weird furniture is surprisingly comfortable.

Now - unfortunately they did not tell us - that even though the kitchen area is exclusively for our use - there is nothing in it. - there are no dishes, no pots or pans.  And they open up the door to it every morning and people are in and out of it.  So not really ours!!!

There is a stadium really close and this weekend there are soccer tournaments.  No one told us that there is also a church revival there starting at 5am and going until around 9AM.  The preaching is loud, the singing is off-key and it lasts for ever!!!.  I cannot wait to go home!!










5-31 Gyamadudu Museum

 Nas researched and found this museum that was supposed to be more about the local regular people - not the kings and queens.  It was in the opposite direction as the Kente cloth museum we had just left.  Our driver didn't really want to go - he and Nas argued about it.  She persisted - after all we are paying him by the day to drive us around - and we are also paying for his fuel.  

We finally found it - and drove down this red rutted path to get to it.  It looked all over-grown with nature.  The entrance was not really passable.

The entrance is through her breasts.


The road to the museum - the car and our driver who Nas told us was afraid of this whole setup and never left the side of his car.  There was an opening besides that pile of rock behind the car.

So we walked through that open gate to see this.  There were these big signs with drawings and sayings on them.  You might need to enlarge this to see what it says.




One of the doors in - locked.





Then there was this large building - a work in progress as building supplies were inside.  As we got close to it a wild dog slunk out of it and disappeared into the brush.  There were several well-laid out paths into the wooded area - Nas was beside herself trying to get us not to go on them.  It turns out she is also afraid.  She was freaked out by the giant head of the women at the entrance.  Honestly - I was not excited about walking though those breasts myself!  

Meanwhile several people have walked or driven by our car.  They were asked to contact the manager.  One said he would.  Another person said someone was here yesterday - but didn't come today.  After waiting a while - with no one coming we decided to leave.  Nas was clearly uncomfortable. Both Michael and I peaked into a building.  All I saw were some large replicas of  heads on the floor.  

Another museum not meant for us.  I really would have liked to have seen it.  After reading the signs I had a hard time imaging what the intent of this museum was.


5-31 Kente Cloth in Bonwire

 Today we are driving out to Bonwire to the Kente Cloth museum.


The cloth samples on the left are the oldest.  All of these samples are made the same way that they currently do it.  Each strip is about 4" wide.  You make enough of the strips to form your pattern and sew them together.

Each tiny pattern has its own name and its own meaning.  


This pattern is one of the most complicated.  Each of the 4" strips must have the gold pattern in  just the right place for the over-all pattern to be perfect.

Then we went outside to see the weavers at work.  This weaver is working on the simplest form - the single weave.  You can see the finished part is about 4" wide.  He is using the beater make sure his cloth is tightly woven.

He uses his feet to change the warp and weave so that the piece stays together.



Here is a sample of a finished strip double woven.

The threads leading up to the loom are tied down about 8 feet away.  We asked - what happens when it rains?  Ghana is in the monsoon season after all.  The thread is strong - they say.  It doesn't not hurt it at all to get drenched.

In Ghana weaving is a male occupation.  The men here are all students.  They supplement their studies with money earned from sales of their work.  This guy was really fast.

Another pattern emerges.  The piece that Jonas Aye gave me was made in this fashion.

I was all ready to try my hand at weaving - I did some when I was in my twenties.  But once I realized how low and tiny the seat was and the difficulty of getting into position - and having to take off my shoes and socks - I passed and let Nas do the honors.  She thought it was very difficult to coordinate the feet with the hands.

This guy is doing triple weaving.  There is a lot of hand weaving involved.

You can see how he has placed the different colors through just a small portion of the header threads. He then lays a solid thread all across to lock those pieces into place.

You can see the beater - that is the first upright form you see closest to his work.  This is used to push the threads very close together - it beats them together.

Then we were brought into the gift shop - where it was every man to himself.  They all had their own little areas to display their work.  Everyone wanted us to buy from them.  But we cannot buy from all.  This guy was the winner.  We also bought another smaller piece from the guy who played our tour guide instead of tipping him.




5-30 Kumasi Cultural Center

 Nas had this place on her list of things to see in Kumasi.  I never looked up what it was all about.  It turns out it is a series of buildings where people do art and also sell it.




A maker of drums


Brass works


Weaving



Pottery




The kiln

Inside the kiln


Most things seem to be done outside.

She is adding real beads to her painting.